If you’re planning on putting some trees on your property, it’s vital to know where you should put them in relation to power lines. Big trees that go up into overhead power lines have to be repeatedly pruned to stay clear of the lines, which can be costly and make for an odd-shaped, unattractive tree.
Also, the roots of trees that are planted too close to underground power lines can be destroyed if the lines are dug up for repair work. This is why it is always best to consult with a tree contractor and your local utility company before beginning any tree planting project.
Here are some tips on what you need to know about planting trees near power lines.
Planting Trees and Overhead Power Lines
Tree specialists and utility companies suggest that homeowners plant trees near overhead power lines pick trees that grow under 25 feet. This is called the low zone. There is also a medium zone and a tall zone.
Here’s how it goes:
Low Zone — This area goes from beneath overhead power lines to between 15-25 feet on any side of the lines. Just low-growing trees that mature from 20-25 feet must be planted in the low zone.
Medium Zone — Medium-growing trees with heights from 25-35 feet have to be planted in the medium zone. This space is around 25-50 feet away from power lines.
Tall Zone — Tall trees that grow over 35 feet must go in the tall zone which starts around 50 feet away from power lines.
Underground Power Lines and Planting Trees
Since underground power lines aren’t significantly buried, and in some instances can be buried near the surface, it’s critical to plant your trees a safe, good distance away. Doing so will aid in not having any issues while digging and can help stop your tree’s roots from sprouting around the lines. While trees and underground power lines typically “live” well together, your tree could be seriously harmed if roots have to be sliced to dig up and fix a line.
Because a tree’s roots are as wide as the tree itself, you might want to think about following the low, medium and tall zone guidelines when planting trees near power lines.
An excellent shade tree can be your BFF on a warm summer day.
Lounge underneath to keep out of the heat. Duck go beneath the branches during a cloudburst. Reduce your home’s utility costs by planting shade trees to stop the sunrays from coming into your home.
The trouble is, trees don’t produce shade overnight. It takes several years for an excellent shade tree to mature. You might even have to hire a tree specialist to assist.
Five Favorite Fast-Growing Shade Trees
However, some trees grow quicker than others. Whether you desire shade or just a good-looking tree in your Buffalo landscape, here’s five of the best trees for the New York area.
Northern Red Oak
The Northern Red Oak is a great tree, and with a growth rate of two feet per year, you don’t have to wait very long to relax under its branches. Additionally, it’s known for vivid red fall color.
This tree typically grows 60-75 feet high at maturity with an impressive canopy spread of around 45 feet. Its crunchy acorns offer a flavorsome feast for wild turkeys, squirrels, raccoons, whitetail deer, and blue jays.
This is one of the most favorably recommended quickest-growing trees. It grows close to eight feet annually. You can almost watch it grow. At maturity, it becomes 40-50 feet.
Autumn Blaze Maple
The name says it all. This is a fall beauty with dazzling orange-red leaves. The Autumn Blaze is a combination of two legendary trees, the silver, and red maples.
Also, it’s the quickest-growing maple, with three to five feet of growth per year. At maturity, Autumn Blaze maples get around 50 feet tall and 40 feet wide with a curved crown.
Best known for its unique cinnamon-colored bark, the river birch is a landscape wonder.
While it grows naturally around river banks, it’s just at home in the landscape, providing spreading limbs at a rapid rate.
It grows between 13-24 inches per year with a final height of 40-70 feet high and a 40-60 feet spread.
Titled for the shape of their flowers, these trees require lots of room to grow. This quick grower (over two feet per year) flourishes up to 90 feet tall. So, you might not see a lot of the yellow-green lowers at the top. But you can value its golden fall leaves.
That is a great question that we’d love to answer. First, ISA is the International Society of Arboriculture. These arborists that obey a code of ethics that guarantees the credibility and reliability of their work.
Using a business that has certified arborists on staff is the way to ensure the security of you and your property, and your trees. When you hire a tree care expert, you want a professional that knows everything about trees from the right fertilization to how to prune correctly to what trees should be planted in your outdoor space
The Significance of an ISA Certification
Being a certified arborist is no easy task. This isn’t just a 10-day class that everyone can take. An ISA certified arborist has been working in the field for hours and practicing correct techniques. To get ISA Certified Arborist credentials, you have to be schooled and trained in all aspects of arboriculture.
ISA Certified Arborist
Let’s begin with the first certification: an ISA Certified Arborist. Ensure that the tree care company you want to hire has certified arborists as part of their staff. Several don’t have these qualified professionals.
Before an individual is qualified to take the ISA Certification test she/he must:
Become an ISA Certified Arborist? Why?
Professional Recognition! Being an ISA Certified Arborist distinguishes you as a tree care professional with the devotion, knowledge, and commitment to achieve something. The American National Standards Institute approves the most popular one, the ISA Certified Arborist program.
Certified Arborist Study Materials
You can use any material you pick during your test preparation. We urge you to use materials that are based on scientific theory and best practices, those that are favored by external reviewers, like governing bodies and accreditation organizations.
The bark of a tree has a crucial purpose in the life of a tree. It’s the outer covering and shields it from the elements similar to the way skin does for animals and humans. Many folks are surprised to learn that when they take off the bark, they are doing harm to the tree and could kill the tree or disrupt its growth. Learn below how bark protects your trees.
The primary purpose of bark on a tree is to safeguard the inner layer of phloem. This layer is vital to the life of a tree since it’s the chief source of energy. The roots and leaves make the food that the tree needs and the phloem transport it to the rest of the tree scattering it as it is necessary for growth and life.
Even if you don’t completely take off a piece of bark, just scratching it can harm the phloem. If this damage is done some distance from the tree or even halfway from the tree, it will survive, but the damage will still affect its survival. Even tiny amounts of damage to the bark can bring death to some of the branches and leaves.
Tree Species and Bark
Every tree type has a different kind of bark, and each has unique characteristics. For example, the bark of the white birch is white and similar to paper. You can write on the bark. While it is an outer covering for the layer of phloem, the bark of the white birch has another purpose. With its light coloring, it can reflect the heat of the sun and stop it from harming the inner core of the tree.
The bark of the Eucalyptus tree also has a distinct purpose. The inner side of the bark is quite oily. If there is a fire, the oil on the bark burns and this shields the rest of the tree so that it doesn’t burn. This exceptional characteristic lets Eucalyptus tree forests refresh themselves since the primary structure of the tree isn’t damaged by the burning.
If you want to learn more about how bark protects your trees, ask a Buffalo tree service company.
Our favorite tree care freebie is making a homemade felling wedge.
We started wedge-making by coincidence. We were cutting pulpwood in a massive stand of fir where the neighboring trees created repeated hang-ups. We needed more lift to force the trees we were cutting onto the ground but was out of wedges. We attempted to cut a wedge out of a stump from a fir tree, but the wood just compressed as we pounded it home.
Wanting a better solution, one of the tree contractors went to the bed of our truck and found a broken, old ax handle. He trimmed the handle around eight inches up from the doe’s foot and formed it with a hatchet and knife to get a sleek, double-tapered wedge. The handle-wedge worked fine giving plenty of lift to lure the tree downward. Though somewhat less sturdy than aluminum or plastic wedges, the wooden ones work well and can be left in the woods once their usefulness is over.
If you find yourself in the forest short on wedges and there’s no ax handles around, think about slashing a wedge out of a little hardwood pole or limb.
You should look for oak, elm, or maple around four inches in diameter. With your chainsaw, start by cutting two smooth sides and then create two diagonal cuts for the center wedge. This will produce three wedges that will be plenty to get your tree to the ground.
Good Sources for Homemade Felling Wedges
Another good source of wedge material that you don’t have to buy is old oak pallet skids. You make these sorts of wedges in the wintertime. We keep a couple in our toolboxes. Cut an assortment of thicknesses and lengths to fulfill various felling conditions.
Wedges can aid in controlling the direction of trees falling even if they are leaning the incorrect way.
Many people think you use a wedge when felling trees. Not only do we use wedges for that, but we use them as well on trees with a lop-sided crown, when felling against the wind, or when it is hard to see which way the tree wants to fall.
In those cases, wedges offer more control over the direction and timing of the fall. If you find that felling trees with homemade wedges to be beyond what you fell like you are capable of, contact Buffalo Tree, we can provide tree cutting professionals to handle any tree you need brought down.
Splitting wood is a rural pastime rooted in experience and tradition. The experience is typically measured in cracked ax handles and cursing aimed at chunks of cordwood.
While the arguments over favored firewood types, splitting methods (over-the-shoulder or in-line), and tools are expected to continue, there appears to be an agreement that is trying to find a good splitting block is time well spent. Read on to learn about using the right splitting block to cut up fallen trees.
Why a splitting block? While some people like to split firewood right on the ground, putting a splitting block under your piece of wood offers many benefits, the main one being safety. Splitting on a raised block means that the last resting place of the ax is nowhere near your feet.
Splitting with a block also lessens the chances of hitting rocks, maintaining the bit of your ax by guaranteeing that it only contacts the wood. There’s plenty of splitting power. If you attempt to split wood on the soft ground, you’ll discover that the earth absorbs much of the energy from your swing. Finally, a good splitting block means fewer backaches and more firewood.
Block Selection: The most difficult hunks of firewood make better, long-lasting splitting blocks. The coiled grain of elm makes a split-resistant block that’s hard to beat. If a block of elm isn’t around, get a knotty block or a wide stump of some other types. Ask a Buffalo tree service professional for different firewood types to use for a splitting block.
The height of the block must be 12-16 inches. For diameter, your block must be many inches wider than the wood you’re splitting for both safety and stability.
Surface Angle: Do yourself a favor and put up two splitting blocks, one with a flawlessly flat top and the other one with the top cut at an angle of 10-15 degrees. Sooner or later, you’ll get a piece of wood with an angled base that won’t stand on the flat block. By fitting the angle of your wood with the angle of the block, you can make even the most uneven pieces stand straight.
What kind of damage can trees sustain in cold winter weather? The frequency and severity of winter damage are decided by many factors, like the plant type, the conditions, and location in which the tree is grown, and the precise timing of severe weather in the dormant period.
Opposite to popular belief, tree damage is not usually caused by a remarkably cold winter. Low-temperature damage is more frequently associated with temperature fluctuation than with lengthy cold weather.
Acclimation to temperatures way below freezing stems from exposure to gradually falling temperatures and other things. Trees that are dormant but not thoroughly acclimated can be stressed or damaged by a sudden, hard freeze. Rapid drops in temperature after mild autumn creates damage to trees. Long periods of mild winter will de-acclimate trees, making them susceptible to injury from quick dips in the temperature.
Some types of trees are injured if temperatures go below a minimum tolerance level. Trees most likely to agonize winter injury are those that are slightly hardy for the area or those previously weakened by earlier stress. Types like holly, magnolia, or rhododendron could endure several mild winters in the Syracuse area before a more typical winter creates injury.
Flower buds are usually the most vulnerable. If buds with minimal hardiness are used, they should be put in protected sites like sheltered areas or courtyards. Generally, low temps are much less harmful than huge, rapid variations in temperature.
Frost cracks, aka radial shakes, look like shallow or deep longitudinal cracks in a tree’s trunk. They are most apparent in winter at temps under 15°F. Frost cracks frequent happen on the south or southwest sides of trees since this area has the most significant temperature fluctuations between night and day.
An abrupt drop in temperature makes the outer layer of the tree contract more quickly than the inner layer, resulting in big long breaks at frail points in the trunk. When a frost crack appears on a tree, it probably will appear yearly. If you believe you have frost cracks, talk with a tree specialist for solutions.
Buffalo Tree Service wants to help you in every aspect of tree care available. We are here to give you tips, tricks, and helpful hints to make sure that you give all the love you can to your trees!
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